BROMO-TENGGER-SEMERU NATIONAL PARK (A COMPLETE HIKING GUIDE)

Located in the Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park, at the heart of East Java, the largest volcanic region in the province is Tengger Caldera. There are four volcanoes standing next to each other and creating a majestic image: Mt Bromo (2329 m), Mt Batok (2440 m), Mt Penanjakan (2770 m) and Mt Semeru (3676 m) – the highest peak of Java. Periodically erupting every 20 min, the volcano is one of the most active in Indonesia.

However, it is Mount Bromo (2329 m) that attracts most of the tourists, hikers and photographers.

Mt Bromo eruption in 2010

BROMO-TENGGER-SEMERU NATIONAL PARK

Gunung Bromo is very active and easy to recognise, as its entire top has been blown off and the crater inside constantly belches white smoke. Mt Batok is inactive and the greenest of all, and most popular with photographers.

The fit ones will want to reach the summit of Gunung Semeru, but it won`t be an effortless hike. Generally, the best spot for the famed sunrise-views across the entire area is from Mount Penanjakan.  From here, the visitors will get to enjoy the side of the caldera, aptly dubbed the Lautan Pasir, translated as ‘Sea of Sand’, is an area of 10 sq kilometres coated with fine volcanic ash.

The jewel of the plains is Pura Luhur Poten – a sacred Hindu temple set at the foot of Mt Bromo. Compared to the surrounding lush, emeralds highlands this large ashy desert lends an eerie and unsettling effect.

The ‘Sea of Sand’ volcanic valley (Lautan Pasir), Pura Luhur Poten Temple

THE TENGGERESE CULTURE & KASADA FESTIVAL

The national park was partially named after the local residents – the Tenggerese, who are deeply devoted to Hinduism. The ethnic group has been walking the highlands of the Tengger range since ever, living almost entirely from agriculture.

On the 14^th day of the month of Kasada, they gather at the rim of Mt Bromo`s active crater to present annual offerings of rice, fruit, vegetables, flowers, livestock and other local products and ask for a blessing from the Supreme God – Hyang Widi Wasa.

Kasada Festival is the most important event for the Tenggerese

PURA LUHUR POTEN TEMPLE

Right in the middle of the spectacular Segara Wedi sand plain there sits Pura Luhur Poten. The temple holds a significant importance to the mountain villages of Ngadisari, Wonokitri, Ngadas, Argosari, Ranu Prani, Ledok Ombo and Wonkerso.

The religious Yadnya Kasada Festival is held annually and goes for 4 weeks. On the 14th day, the grand ceremony starts, when the visitors can watch the local Hindu crowds proceeding along the crater edges of Mt Bromo where, by old tradition, offerings are thrown into the crater.

Pura Luhur Poten Temple

JAVANESE FOLKLORE AND MOUNT BROMO

According to an old legend, the Kasada ceremony dates back to the time of the Majapahit Kingdom, during the reign of King Brawijaya. The queen gave birth to a daughter, Rara Anteng, who married Jaka Seger, a young Brahmin. They fled together as Islam expanded in java during the 15^th century. Although together and in love, they were not able to have any children, so they decided to climb up to the top of Bromo and pray for help. The God of mountain listen to their prayer and promised to give them a lot of children under one condition – they would need to sacrifice one of them in return. After the 25^th child was born and the promise broken, the God got angry and the last child was thrown into the crater. From then on, every year there must be a ceremony of offering as a punishment. And so it is..

By an old legend, offering must be brought and thrown into the crater each year

CLIMBING MOUNT BROMO

The two main gateways to the Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park are Probolinggo (with the starting point in Cemoro Lawang village) and Pasuran (with the starting point in Wonokitri village). You can reach both towns via Surabaya, Malang or Banyuwangi (if travelling overland from Bali). There are three options to climb Mount Bromo.

Mt Bromo (2329 m), Mt Batok (2440 m), Mt Penanjakan (2770 m) and Mt Semeru in the background (3676 m)

1.ORGANIZED TOUR FROM BALI/JAKARTA

Tourists who do not have much spare time will want to take an organised three-day tour from Bali or Jakarta that seems a good option for holidaymakers. Such a tour is also to be arranged directly in Surabaya at any local travel agency. You will be looked after for the entire time of the journey – all inclusive.  However, that can cost you up to USD 500 per person.

Bromo package tours include transport, meals, accommodation and a private guide

2.SELF-GUIDED TOUR VIA PROBOLINGGO/CEMORO LAWANG

Independent travellers can reach Mt Bromo by Patas shuttle bus from Bungurasih Bus Terminal/Purabaya in Surabaya to Probolinggo (3hr drive). This is the most popular and most visited route.

There are also minivans available in Surabaya ideal for larger groups of travellers. Optionally, you can travel by train from Surabaya, as well. From Probolinggo bus terminal you will need to get to Cemoro Lawang village, using the local yellow minibus Sukapura or Ngadisari. Stay at one of the guesthouses in Cemoro Lawang.

The village of Cemoro Lawang is the starting point to Mount Bromo (access via Probolinggo)

NOTE that in the peak season, weekends and local holiday time accommodation in Cemoro Lawang often get fully booked.

Ojeks and jeeps to Mount Bromo run every morning from 6 am, and they are suitable for elderly and visitors who prefer comfort. Besides, there are horses available for the “lazier” to take them to the last section of the trek which needs to be conquered on foot – 249 concrete stairs.

249 stairs need to be climbed to reach Bromo`s crater rim

Otherwise, anyone can easily walk the entire length; apart from the stairs up to the rim, it is more of a stroll than climb. It will take you 45 minutes to get to the crater from Cemoro Lawang, and the trek and the crowds marching one after another like ducks are so evident that even at dawn there is no need to hire a guide which you will likely be offered several times. You will only need to pay the entrance fee to the national park which is around USD 25 per person (it might vary from person to person or a mood of the officer, and it increases year by year).

There is no need to hire a guide to take you to the crater – all you need is to follow the troops

3.SELF-GUIDED TOUR VIA PASURUAN/WONOKITRI

Alternatively, there is another access to the volcanoes (less popular but also less crowded) – from Pasuruan. A bus ride from Bungurasih Bus Terminal/Purabaya in Surabaya to Pasuruan takes about 2 hours. Then the starting point to Mount Penanjakan for the Mount Bromo sunrise trip will be the village of Wonokitri. You will need to stay at one of them overnight to organise your trip.

Wonokitri is the starting point to Mount Bromo (western access)

The 15 km long trek starts at Wonokitri and takes about 3 hours, so if you want to make it before sunrise, you will have to get up pretty early. Otherwise, you can hire a 4WD vehicle and a driver who will take you there. You will only need to pay the entrance fee to the national park which is around USD 25 per person (it might vary from person to person or a mood of the officer, and it increases year by year).

A view from atop of Mount Bromo

TRAVEL TIP

The base for most of the trips in the national park is the village of Cemoro Lawang, where most of the visitors stay. It is recommended to hire a scooter and explore the park independently at your own pace. There are beautiful villages with traditional houses, waterfalls, lakes and other volcanoes to climb.

Madakaripura Waterfall is a must-see

ESSENTIAL EXPERIENCES IN THE BROMO-TENGGER-SEMERU NATIONAL PARK

• VOLCANO HIKING – Mt Bromo 2329 m (the pre-dawn trek can be done independently), Mt Penanjakan 2770 m (Viewpoint 1, the first lookout on the way to Mt Bromo), Mt Semeru 3676 m (guide and permit required, challenging climb), Mt Batok 2440 m (easy but very dusty hike, best for photography)
• Madakaripura Waterfall – it is said that the water here does magic and it is an elixir of life. Well, what are you waiting for? J Besides, there are monkeys and lovely jungle scenery (access from Sapih village or book a tour at your guesthouse)
• Ranu Pani & Ranu Regulo Lakes – picturesque landscape with misty forest and green highlands. There are many legends and myths related to the lakes, and there is kind of ghostly atmosphere around (Ranu Pani has nice homestays if you want to hear the stories..) NOTE Lake Ranu Kumbolo is known for magnificent sunrise and lovely camping area (3 hr hike from Ranu Pani, the lake is on the way to the summit of Mt Semeru)
• Pura Luhur Poten Temple – the famous Hindu temple beautifully located amid the Sea of Sand Plateau, at the foot of Mount Bromo
• Kasada Festival – the spectacular ceremony is held annually at the full moon of the 12^th months according to the Tenggerese calendar, you will need to look up for the dates as they are different every year (see above) NOTE the event is now also accompanied by the photography competition called Bromo Exotica
• Tenggerese Cuisine – try the delicious local food, e.g. Tahu Tek (vegetarian) or Rujak Cingur (“beef-mouth” with vegetables) and make sure you don`t skip the Javanese coffee ‘Kopi Panas’

Ranu Pani lake is fantastic for overnight camping on the way to Mt Semeru

HOW TO AVOID SCAM

Sadly, the whole Mt Bromo area is filled with the scam, and you need to be aware of it at all times. You will frequently be attempted to be ripped off and told lies by the locals, so use your common sense and always try to negotiate the price when hiring a scooter, car or paying for any services.

You will only need to pay the entrance fee to the national park which is around USD 25 per person (it might vary from person to person or a mood of the officer, and it increases year by year). Also, all prices during the peak season might double.

• You only need to pay the entrance fee to the national park ONCE
• Do NOT pay the entrance fee if doing an organised tour and have already paid for it
• Do NOT pay any viewpoint fee
• You are NOT obliged to agree on any transport to get to Mt Bromo, e.g. horse, ojek or jeep

Visitors are often hustled to use a horse to get to the rim of the crater albeit it is not necessary

HOW LONG TO STAY

Organized tours from Bali or Jakarta typically take 2-3 days. If you arrive independently from Surabaya, you should allow a day or two just to look around and arrange the trek. Overly, you will not need more than three days for the whole trip to Mt Bromo unless you intend to climb Mount Semeru (allow 2-3 extra days).

Mount Bromo is recommended to visit in the shoulder season & outside of local public holidays

WHEN TO TRAVEL

The dry season generally goes from June till September which is also the peak season – Bromo gets extremely crowded and overpriced, but the visitors will get the best views. Between December and February, it rains abundantly and the chances of taking a good photograph decrease – however, there will be not as many tourists.

Perhaps the middle season (Oct-Nov, March-May could be a good option, excluding weekends and the Indonesian public holidays when the local students often arrive in large groups. Nevertheless, the Bromo area is almost always busy and filled with people, so do not expect unspoiled beauty.

NOTE – there are constant eruptions occurring in the volcanic reserve and the park often gets closed. Always check out for the local volcano activity updates and weather forecast.

The early morning views of Mount Bromo steal the hearts of thousands of visitors each year

HOW TO GET THERE

Fly to Jakarta/Java or Denpasar/Bali first (these international airports are well-connected to any Asian or Australian Airport).

Then you will need to catch a domestic flight to Surabaya or Malang. From either of the cities, depending on the access point, you will need to get to either Probolingoo/Cemoro Lawang by bus or train or Pasuruan/Tosari and Wonokitri.

The tourist infrastructure here is excellent and transport very good. It is always advisable to hook up with other travellers for safety and better deals.

For all international flights go to www.momondo.com or www.skyscanner.com

For all domestic Indonesian flights check out www.garuda-indonesia.co

MAP OF MOUNT BROMO TRACK (FOR SELF-GUIDED HIKING)

MAP OF RANU KUMBOLO-RANU PANI-RANU REGULO CIRCUIT

MAP OF THE GREAT MOUNT SEMERU (MAHAMERU) TRACK (2-3 DAYS RETURN)