While photographers will head off to the Kelimutu crater lakes, the underwater-world lovers slowly begin to return to inspect the coral gardens of the Flores Sea, as most of the reef has now recovered after the devastating earthquake in 1992. Maumere is a household name when it comes to scuba diving.

East Flores has a lesser developed infrastructure, and rather presents a trip “out of the comfort zone” but whoever appreciates authentic travel experience, pristine natural beauty and sea life will be more than delighted.

The volcanic coast of East Flores presents breathtaking images

ENDE

The beaches around Ende are considered the most striking in Flores. They are typically black-sanded and the tides regularly bring blue pebbles that are very precious and exported primarily to Japan and used for their lovely gardens. The local markets boast textiles, fish and livestock and they are important social venues for the local residents. Ende`s town centre is pretty compact and easy to explore on foot.

The lazy port of Ende is the second largest town in Flores, lying between the flat-topped volcano Pelabuhan Ipi and Mount Iya. The past eruptions and earthquakes caused massive damage and the locals live their everyday life in constant tension.

Mbuliwaralau Beach, Ende

Mbuliwaralau Beach, Ende

Long stretches of black sand that fringe the shores, are home to many fishermen settlements and ikat-famous villages. Ende is a starting point to Moni and the attractive volcanic Kelimutu National Park as well as the gateway to the West Timor a real off the beaten trail adventure.

The beaches around Ende are considered the most striking in Flores. They are typically black-sanded and the tides regularly bring blue pebbles that are very precious and exported primarily to Japan and used for their lovely gardens. The local markets boast textiles, fish and livestock and they are important social venues for the local residents. Ende`s town centre is pretty compact and easy to explore on foot.

Florenese ikat is one of the finest, Moni market

WHAT TO DO IN ENDE

Cycle around Ende and find the gorgeous Fila Ria, Mosaic Stones, Blue Pebble Beaches to collect some of the precious stones of Ende

Discover the countryside of Ende – rent a scooter and self-drive; find the Murondao Waterfall, pop into the Nua Kepi Cave, explore the prehistoric site of Rewa Rangga and its ancient footprints of what is said to be a giant, and pay a visit to the fishermen village of Ngella to learn more about ikat weaving

Keli Watublati –  pay a visit the traditional Ikat weaving village and learn more about the complicated procedure of making the fine ikat

Climb Mount Iya (627 m) and enjoy the excellent views, standing on the edge of the very cliffs dropping off to the sea  (a local guide is recommended)

Mount Iya

KELIMUTU NATIONAL PARK

On the way to Kelimutu, every visitor will pass Moni. It is a picturesque village extending along the road from the lower slopes of the volcano down to the valley floor and makes a great base from which to take the thrilling trek to the volcanic craters. There are lovely ikat markets where to buy sarongs.

The three strangely coloured crater lakes are considered to be the most startling natural phenomena in entire Indonesia, certainly one of the top Flores attractions. One lake has a milky jade-like tint, the other one is coloured in a shade of turquoise and the last lake appears more like a big bowl full of chocolate – the constant change of colours in these 3 crater lakes caused by the playful sunshine is a real spectacle.

3-coloured crater lakes of Kelimutu

KELIMUTU TREKKING

To reach  Gunung Kelimutu (1620 m) before sunrise, you will have to start just before 4 am  (the most spectacular views are just before the dawn). It is a short, 45 min trek to reach the lip of Kelimutu. Most of the visitors will arrange a local guide who brings them up and makes sure they do not get lost in the network of pathways in this volcanic land.

There is a small waterfall on the way back which is perfect for having a dip after the long day. Otherwise, you can stop by the hot springs to relax a bit. NOTE there are cheeky monkeys around, so, but be careful  – they are sneaky buggers!

Kelimutu (1620 m)

MAUMERE

Maumere is the largest city of the Flores Island and once the most important diving destination in Nusa Tenggara. Sadly, the location has been facing a recession in the last few decades. The reason was a devastating earthquake followed by a tsunami in 1992 which destroyed most of the town.

Even the underwater paradise of this destination, its major point of interest, suffered a massive loss and tourism drastically decreased. Nowadays, the tourism infrastructure is slowly but surely improving and he scuba divers are starting coming to Maumere to research its azure waters and fresh corals emerging from the seabed.

Whale sharks, various whales, manta rays, sponges, gorgonian fans, soft corals and more has returned to the coastal waters of the Flores Sea; Babi Island is the premier diving destination near Maumere.

Maumere Bay

WHAT TO DO IN MAUMERE BAY

Maumere Morning Market – get up early and pay a visit to the authentic market ‘Alok Pasar’ on the edge of town. It has fabulous displays of exotic fruit & vegetables and livestock (pigs, chicken, goats, and even dogs). Worth activity to do if you do not want to skip any of Flores attractions.

Rent a scooter and search around the recovering beaches of Maumere and the local villages. Nangahale is known for boat craft and Wuring is a fishermen village with stilt houses and Sikka is renowned for ikat-sarongs. There are lovely beaches nearby as well

Climb Egon Volcano (1710 m) and stop by at the Blidit Hot Springs to enjoy some relax after the big hike. The starting point to Gunung Egon is Andalan Village where you will need to hire a local guide as the path is not marked (3 hrs one way).

Babi & Pangabatang Islands – serene islands are known for  good diving, snorkelling, camping and trekking, ideal for a relaxing weekend (boat access from the Nangahale village)

Wuring Village, Maumere

SEMANA SANTA

The most important Catholic celebration in Flores is Semana Santa. the event takes place in Larantuka each year, one week before the Easter Sunday. That is the time when the pilgrims from all over Flores come to the town of Larantuka (the easternmost end of Flores) to celebrate the Holy Week. The spectacular mass parade truly is something to watch.


WHEN TO TRAVEL

The dry season runs from May till September and it is the best time to travel.


HOW TO GET THERE

Maumere has a domestic airport, which makes it easier to travel by air. For all domestic flights see https://www.garuda-indonesia.com/

For all international flights check out www.skyscanner.com or www.momondo.com

The local Pelni ships are quite popular means of transport between the Indonesian islands, especially among the local people and independent travellers (see https://www.pelni.co.id/welcome?lang=en)

There are frequent local or tourist shuttle buses operating between Labuan Bajo-Ende or Labuan Bajo-Maumere.

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Eva Bodova

Wednesday 16 May 2018

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